Visiting Hayashi Nouen (Goichi Wine)
～Part II Winemaking as Told by Mr. Kikuchi～
1298 -170 Souga, Shiojiri-shi, Nagano
http://www.goichiwine.co.jp/
-
-
About
Mr. Kei KikuchiSenior Managing Director of Hayashi Nouen Corp.
Mr. Kikuchi attended the Department of Brewing Science at Tokyo University of Agriculture. After graduation, Mr. Kikuchi joined Monde Winery Co., Ltd, where he was involved in the production of western liquors and wine. After that, he joined Snow Brand Milk Products Co., Ltd. and was involved from the start of the company's new domestic wine production plant. In 2001, he joined Hayashi Noen Corp. and has been mainly in charge of winemaking for the past 20 years. Including his experience at various other companies, he has a total of about 50 years of winemaking experience. He is also the chairman of the Nagano Appellation Control Committee, the chairman of the Nagano Prefecture Wine Association, and is dedicated to the development of wine in Nagano Prefecture as a whole. He is one of the main people who filed the petition for the "GI (Geographical Indication) Nagano" designation, and on June 30, 2021, wine from Nagano Prefecture finally received the GI designation from the secretary of Japan's National Tax Agency at the same time as sake.
-
Hayashi-Smart Pergola Trellis System with Merlot -
Cultivation Methods That Have Been Continuously Improved Upon
"High Grafting Method" to Survive Harsh Winters
The challenge of growing Merlot began at Hayashi Nouen in 1951. The severe winter cold caused the Merlot to die, and after repeated failed attempts to get it to grow, he finally succeeded through improved cultivation methods. One of them is the "High Grafting Method," in which the base tree is grafted at a high position to prevent freezing damage. With typical vine grafts, the joint between the base and the scion is close to the surface, but by extending the base to the bottom of the shelf and grafting at a higher position, the Merlot vine can be protected against frost damage.
South Wind and "Hayashi-Smart Pergola Trellis System"
The second improved cultivation method Hayashi Nouen employs is the Hayashi-Smart Pergola Trellis System. It is based on the Smart-Mayorga Trellis System proposed by Dr. Richard Smart of Australia. It all started when Mr. Mikio Hayashi, present chairman of Hayashi Nouen, asked Dr. Smart if there was a better way to grow grapes. In order to suit Kikyougahara, the current method was developed through a series of improvements.
"In Kikyougahara, a strong southern wind blows for more than half of the year. If we try to fasten the branches upwind, they become agitated, but it is relatively easy to fasten them downwind so that all the branches extend downwind from each branch." Mr. Kikuchi said.
The Agricultural Experiment Station in Nagano Prefecture has adopted this method and it now serves as the basis of cultivation in the prefecture.
-
Hayashi-Smart Pergola Trellis System with Merlot -
A Deeply Moving Award
Ever since 2001 when Mr. Kikuchi started making wine from grapes grown in Kikyougahara, he has been asking himself one question: "Is our wine world class?" He decided to enter Hayashi Nouen's wine in a competition to find out how it would compare in an overseas wine competition. Mr. Mikio Hayashi, chairman of Hayashi Nouen, grew Merlot with his father, Mr. Goichi Hayashi, and has been making wine for many years. So, Mr. Kikuchi really wanted their Merlot to win an award.
We Are on the Right Track
As a result, in 2005, "Kikyougahara Merlot 2001" won the Gold Medal at the Bordeaux Challenge International du Vin, a prestigious international wine competition in France.
"We are on the right track."
Upon hearing the news, Mr. Kikuchi became convinced of his winemaking ability. Today, everyone in Japan knows about Kikyougahara Merlot.
-
Kakizawa Vineyard -
Feelings of
Joy and PressureMr. Kikuchi was also deeply moved in 2019 when "Estate Goichi Merlot Kakizawa 2016" won a gold medal at the Japan Wine Competition.
"I was even happier because it was a Merlot from a newly cultivated vineyard. Most of the wineries in Kikyougahara are located at an elevation of approximately 700 meters, but Kakizawa vineyard is around 800 meters. This ‘100 meter difference' may be the reason for the victory. After winning gold at a competition, I am not only happy, but I also feel pressure for the future," Mr. Kikuchi said while steeling himself.
-
Mr. Shuichi Abe (middle), Nagano Prefecture Governor, unveils the GI Nagano logo. Mr. Kei Kikuchi is second from right.
Photo Source:©2021 NAGANO WINE応援団運営委員会 [NAGANO WINE Support Group Management Committee].
"GI長野、ついに指定へ![GI Nagano to be Designated at Last!]" Nagano Wine Official Website.
https://www.nagano-wine.jp/special/topics/ginagano0630.html -
My Future Goal
The Dream of "GI Nagano Designation" has Finally Come True
On June 30, 2021, news swept across Japan that wine and sake produced in Nagano Prefecture were simultaneously designated as "GI (Geographical Indication)" by the secretary of Japan's National Tax Agency. In WTO (World Trade Organization) member countries, geographical indications are regarded as intellectual property rights. If wine or sake has developed characteristics unique to their area, producers in the area can file an application for GI status, to be granted by the secretary of Japan's National Tax Agency after extensive review. After that, products can finally be labeled as a GI. As the chairman of the Nagano Appellation Control Committee, and the chairman of the Nagano Prefecture Wine Association, Mr. Kikuchi was one of the key figures petitioning for Nagano's GI designation.
Promoting Nagano Wine to the World
"I would like to promote Nagano wine to the world. I would like to make it known as a famous wine-producing area not only in Japan but also overseas. My future challenge is working Kikyougahara until it is known the world over as such an area. I will do my best!" Mr. Kikuchi said.